McCalls 8438 The Best Coat Sewing Pattern This Season

McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438 with leopard scarf

The McCalls 8438 coat is the perfect winter staple. This timeless design features a high collar, dropped shoulders, side panels, pockets, and a belt. It is available in sizes 4-20 and can be made in various fabrics, such as boiled wool, flannel, or wool blends.

The pattern is easy to follow, even for beginner sewists, but I wouldn’t recommend it for a new beginner, maybe not even for an advanced beginner. The instructions are clear and concise, and plenty of illustrations help you along the way.  There is a mistake in the instructions that I will tell you about in the tips section below.  For now, let’s get into the pattern features.

Features of McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

  • High collar
  • Dropped shoulders
  • Side panels
  • Pockets
  • Belt
  • Available in sizes 4-20
  • Can be made in a variety of fabrics
If you want to see this coat in action, watch my YouTube video here

Benefits of McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

  • Easy-to-follow instructions
  • Clear and concise illustrations
  • Timeless design
  • Versatile style
  • Can be made in a variety of fabrics

Fabrics for  McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

The Fabric I Chose:

I was shopping in Paris, especially for McCalls 8438, and came across this beautifully bright blue wool and elastane blend for a good price.  The only problem is that I couldn’t get it in a single piece of fabric. I bought two sections – each about 1.5 yards- hoping to make it work.

It worked.  The only trouble I had was that even after prewashing, the fabric was so vibrantly dyed that my fingertips and nails were blue for a day or so.. More on prewashing –> HERE

What is Wool and Elastane Blend?

The price of a wool and elastane blend fabric can vary depending on the specific type of wool, the percentage of elastane, and the width of the fabric. However, you can generally expect to pay between $6 and $50 per yard for wool and elastane blend fabric.

shontae from sewing for my sanity McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

Here are some examples of the prices of wool and elastane blend fabric from different retailers:

  • Nature’s Fabrics: 97% Organic Merino Wool and 3% Spandex Interlock Blend Fabric – Feltable Seconds – $6.67 per yard
  • Fashion Fabrics Club: Green-Multi Famous Designer Brush Textured Plaid Stretch Wool-poly Knit Fabric by The Yard (Wool-Polyester-Spandex) – $26.00 per yard
  • Etsy: Reversible Stretch Wool Elastane Blend Black White Striped Fabric Smooth Material Fashion Upholstery Vintage Design Clothing Winter Textile – $13.25 per yard
  • eBay: Grey Stretch Wool Coating Fabric, Elastane Blend Melton Made In Italy, – $219.90 per 3.50 meters

As you can see, wool and elastane blend fabric prices can vary significantly. If you are on a budget, some retailers sell wool and elastane blend fabric for as little as $6 per yard. However, if you are looking for a higher-quality fabric, you may need to pay closer to $50 per yard.

Here are some factors that can affect the price of wool and elastane blend fabric:

  • The type of wool: Merino wool is more expensive than other types of wool, such as acrylic or polyester. This is because merino wool is softer, finer, and more durable.
  • The percentage of elastane: The more elastane that is added to a fabric, the more expensive the fabric will be. This is because elastane is a synthetic fiber that is more expensive to produce than wool.
  • The width of the fabric: Wider fabrics are generally more expensive than narrower fabrics. This is because wider fabrics require more fabric to produce.

Ultimately, the best way to find out the price of a wool and elastane blend fabric is to contact a fabric retailer or do some research online.

Tips for Sewing McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

  • Use a sharp needle and thread when sewing with wool or other thick fabrics.
  • Use a serger or zig-zag stitch to finish the edges of your coat.
  • Press all seams carefully before moving on to the next step.
  • Be patient and take your time when sewing your coat.
  • Choose an appropriate interfacing.

Interfacing choices for M8438

Choose your interfacing well and test it out. Assuming that what worked with another fabric will work for this unique one is a mistake. I can’t tell you how many times I have chosen a fabric only to be sorely disappointed in the interfaced results. Be diligent and test often. Also, remember that storing interfacing is tricky. If you live in a humid area like I do, then storing interfacing in a cool, dry place is paramount. The moisture in the air, a closet, or your sewing space can weaken the chemical adhesive bonds in the interfacing.

Pellon 950F Shir-Tailor is one of my interfacing options.

Sewing considerations for the McCalls 8438 coat

The coat’s pattern instructions contain a mistake regarding completion that may confuse some novice sewists, so be careful. You can slip-stitch the lining to the coat instead of following the listed directions.

This coat was way too big.  There are a few places she can make some adjustments.

I had to adjust the sleeve and side seams over an inch.  I wish I had taken a before and after pic so that I could show you exactly how big this coat was in real life.

shontae from sewing for my sanity McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438

It’s heavy for me as a five-foot diva. Consider making this coat with something lightweight but stable.

It takes a long time to cut and it took me about 4 hours to sew. Pace yourself if you are making this as a gift or to wear during the season.

Total taken out of the pattern sleeve = 3”.  One inch adjusted AFTER the coat was sewn.

Petitte Adjustments for McCalls 8438

For Petites: You must adjust the length of EVERY piece of this coat. For some reason, I miscalculated the back and side is, so they were cut a little too long and adjusted later.

Also, piece #2 of McCalls 8438 is long and wacky.  Even with length adjustments, it was way too long. Beware: If you make any length adjustments, you may still need to sure up this pattern piece- piece #2.

If you think you might need to make several adjustments, add the carrier almost last, as om before you close up the coat otherwise, you will have to remove them and attach them again. Fortunately, I made the carriers first.  

The way I put together a pattern is to do all the interfacing, then the small accessory pieces such as ties and belts, then the lining, then the main piece.  For me, this process seems seamless and makes sense.  Often, the pattern company will bounce all over the pattern, and that drives me insane, and well, I sew for sanity. 

It’s not an average pattern… I would lean towards intermediate or super advanced beginner.

Conclusion and final thoughts on M8438

Overall, McCalls Coat Sewing Pattern 8438 is a great choice for anyone who wants to sew a winter coat. It is easy to follow, versatile, and can be made in various fabrics. With some patience and practice, you can create a beautiful and stylish coat that will keep you warm all winter.

I hope this blog post has been helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below.84.

Thanks for reading!