Sewing with Knits 5 Incredible Secrets: A Guide

When you first start sewing, everyone has opinions about what you should make and what fabric you should use. We are mostly persuaded to start with a woven fabric—usually an apron or flannel PJ bottom that you hate and will never use.

This post isn’t to bash wovens. Like poplin, cotton, linen, and wool, wovens are stable friends. They do exactly what they are expected to do. They don’t stretch on the grainline and they stay together nicely under your feed dog. But to be fair, knits get a lousy reputation among beginners, and I’m here to change that.

As my own Custom Collection has evolved toward a more elevated, luxe wardrobe, my appreciation for a beautifully draped knit has only grown. Plus, as a 4’11” sewist, I can tell you firsthand: knits are incredibly forgiving when you’re tweaking a pattern for petite adjustments.

Why choose knits over wovens?

They forgive you: They stretch on your body and on the machine. If a cut is slightly off, no one will ever know (I’ll keep your secret).
They drape and twirl: Draping a printed knit creates beautiful, rewarding movement.
They don’t ravel: You don’t have to serge or finish the edges, though it looks polished if you do.
They bring the heat: I live on a literal island where winter temps run between 58-75 degrees. But on that breezy, chilly day when you want to be snuggled in a heavier knit, it’s a ready-made heat box.

Knits are surprisingly easy to sew. Whether this is your first or 50th knit project, here are my 5 incredible secrets to mastering them.

Secret 1: Respect the Knit Gauge (Choosing the Right Fabric)

Knits are made of interlocking looped yarns and come in a variety of forms: Ponte, thermal/waffle, double knit, sweater knit, rayon, bamboo, modal, rib knit, swimwear, Jersey, and ITY. Some are stable (perfect for structured pants), while others have heavy drape (perfect for t-shirts and flowing dresses).

To make the most of your project, you have to choose the correct type of stretch.

Pay attention to the stretch knit gauge on the pattern envelope.
Hold the material firmly in your left hand against the envelope.
Fold 3″ – 4″ of the fabric and stretch it to the right against the indicator. It should stretch beyond the designated requirement.

A word of caution: Be careful not to distort the pattern or print. Overstretching may give you a false sense that the fabric will work! Watch my quick video below to see exactly how I test this:

Secret 2: The Rotary Cutter is Boss (Cutting)

Cutting knits can be tricky because they are slinky and become misshapen with stress. First, identify the right side of the fabric. I use a small piece of clear removable tape to mark the side that rolls (trust me, mark it, especially if it’s black!).

Next, use pattern weights. Knit fabric moves a lot. This is not the time to cowboy/cowgirl cut, or you’ll end up with distorted, abnormally small pieces.

Finally, use a rotary cutter. I know someone just sighed. Rotary cutters aren’t just for quilters. Listen, Linda: when handled correctly, that rotary cutter is a savior. As scissors graze the table, the fabric moves. I ain’t got time for that, so I use the rotary cutter like a boss. The key is proper pressure, the right angle, and a fresh blade.

Secret 3: The Prewash Rule

I repeat: prewash your knits UNLESS the manufacturer explicitly recommends another method. THEY. WILL. SHRINK.

I know sewists who don’t prewash, and I just don’t understand why you would want a smaller project after spending all that time sewing. Even the pressing process will shrink the fabric.

Pro Tip: I prewash my knits in whatever manner I plan to wash the final garment. If it’s a wool jersey, I will dry clean it or cold-water wash it and lay it flat. If it’s a 100% polyester ITY, I wash it on hot and dry it on high. Mistakes happen with laundry in my house, so this guarantees no harm will come to my precious make if it is accidentally laundered improperly later.

Secret 4: Interfacing Must Match the Stretch

Some projects require interfacing to stabilize zippers, collars, tabs, buttonholes, and pockets. Using the wrong interfacing can make the area super stiff, completely defeating the purpose of a stretch fabric.

Personally, I like to use a fusible tricot like FusiKnit. The interfacing should be lightweight and it must stretch. Remember to align the stretch direction of the interfacing with the stretch of the fabric, and always test it on a scrap piece first!

Secret 5: Upgrade Your Hardware

To sew knits successfully, you need the right tools on your machine:

Use a Walking Foot: Prevent the slip-and-slide of the fabric. Slipping distorts the seams and the ease of the garment. If your machine doesn’t have one, order one online or visit your local dealer.
Use a Ballpoint or Jersey Needle (70/10): Because the needle is blunt, it slips between the knit fibers instead of punching little holes in them. This prevents pulling, snagging, and skipped stitches. I guarantee on an expensive modal, silk jersey, or wool jersey, this stretch needle will save you a massive headache.