So Fresh and Lemon Squeezy Hack McCalls 8322

McCalls 8322 is fresh and clean, but it’s a hack. Now, wait before you go judging me for hacking this beautiful dress pattern. Remember that the only constant in life is change, and change is a beautiful thing. We create unique garments when we hack. I have a personal theory when it comes to hacking. Check out my YouTube video all about my thoughts on hacking. Now let’s get into this pattern and all the details that led us into the bright sunshine.

Pattern Features of McCalls 8322

• Bodice variations
• Tiered skirt -full or midi
• Back zipper

How the Hacking Started

I was invited to participate in the 2024 Pattern HackAThon hosted by Kris of @unsewcial.  I was partnered with the talented Bryd of @yogaByrdSews.  We chose McCalls 8322 a dress my ambassador partner said was begging to be hacked.  Guys! Do you know how I feel about dresses? I love them so much so hacking one is right up my ally.The fun of a hack is the sewing challenge and pushing yourself to assemble a unique garment.⁠

The McCalls 8322 Hack idea

I love to mix beautiful fabrics, media, and pattern features together. While I think all the necklines of McCalls 8322, including View A, are lovely, I also wanted to maintain the dress’s silhouette. The idea was to add a bit of vintage style to this modern pattern. I sketched out a basic concept in my “thinking notebook” and then hunted in my pattern drawers for something akin to my vision. The sewing goal was to make a more classic style. Confessions, I’m a little obsessed with styles from the 1940s and 1950s and I love those dresses June Clever cleaned house in while fussing at the Beaver. And while this wouldn’t be that kind of dress, it fit the mode of an elevated version. I needed a sloper to act as a base so I wouldn’t have to start from scratch.  Work smarter, not harder, right?

There in a sea of uncut sewing patterns was McCalls 8380, a 1940s vintage jewel.  McCalls 8380 is on fire.  It features delicate feminine bow accented bodice and a bow graces the midline, but the skirt is rather basic. I knew that measuring and matching up the waist and midriff would be my biggest challenge but I forgot about one thing– the zipper.  McCalls 8322 features a back zipper, McCalls 8380 features a left sided zipper.  I kept the left sided zipper which does make this a bit of an acrobat feat to get into (but it’s totally worth it).

The Fabric

Directly from my local Joann Fabric Store,  I was searching for a fabric that spoke to the vintage nature of the McCalls 8380 and screamed summer fun.  I found two worthy fabrics in the store: tiny white dots on a chambray backing and bright lemon polka dots.  Both of this fabrics are 100% cotton and perfectly breathable for summer.

For days, I seriously debated what fabric to use.  I love lemon fabrics, and as you can see below, I’ve already had a fresh, squeezy moment.

Challenges with this Hack

This sewing pattern is not too difficult. However, significantly underestimated the midriff challenges. Next time, I will completely redraft the midriff.

Future Hacks for McCalls 8322 or McCalls 8380

For McCalls 8380, I want to line this dress and add a layer of underlining tulle.  I mean it deserves and is begging a sprinkle of tulle. In the future, I may even add horsehair braid to the hem to elevate the look of the skirt a bit.  And first on my wishlist is pockets. I ran out of time but pockets would have elevated this look.

And as for McCalls 8322, the sky is still the limit.  My first idea was to turn this pattern into a jumpsuit, but I feared the appearance of a costumey-like look with the multiple tiers on my legs and thighs.

Summary of the Hacked Elements of McCalls 8322

🍋 Replaced the original bodice with the bodice from McCalls 8380

🍋 View A – Shortened by 3 inches for petite styling

🍋 Moved the back zipper to the left side to accommodate new bodice

🍋 Shortened the midriff by 3/4″

🍋 Added lightweight interfacing to the bodice facing