McCall’s 8155 How to Work With Tweeds

Sewing For My Sanity African American Woman walking in McCalls 8155 tweed jacket

McCall’s 8155 (#Brighton McCalls) is a versatile jacket sewing pattern that can be used to create various stylish looks for almost every occasion. I’m short and so the perfect jacket makes me look like a tall queen. Honestly, this is a jacket the way we like jackets, different and a little snazzy with a little bit of pizzaz. We have three views: a short cropped version, a peplum, and a long jacketI especially love this jacket because of the unique peplum. It’s especially well-suited for sewing with tweeds, which is a classic and textured fabric that can add a touch of sophistication to any outfit.

What is McCall’s 8155?

McCall’s 8155 is a misses’ sewing pattern for a lined and collared jacket. And you know how much I love jackets (like McCalls 8121) in the cooler weather. The jacket features a double-breasted closure, a notch collar, and princess seams for a flattering fit. The cropped version has a similar design to the jacket, but it is unlined and has a slightly shorter length.

Pattern features of McCall’s 8155 #BrightonMcCalls

McCall’s 8155 is a sewing pattern for misses’ and women’s jackets . It features a double-breasted, lined design with a notch collar and comes in multiple lengths. Here are some of the key details about McCall’s 8155:

  • Double-breasted, lined jacket
  • Notch collar
  • Hip-length and peplum jacket options
  • Buttoned front and neckline variations
  • Suitable for fabrics with or without nap, such as wool crepes, gabardine, wool blends, and tweed

McCalls 8155 Size range:

  • Misses’ sizes 8-16
  • Plus sizes 18w-24w

Sewing Difficulty level:

  • Intermediate: I definitely made a quick muslin before I started this project. I wanted to work out the sizing without making a ton of adjustments on my precious tweed from Melanated Fabrics. My other favorite places to snag high-quality tweeds are Minerva Fabrics (Latest Fabrics) and Mood Fabrics. Sometimes I can even find great fabrics in the Clearance Fabrics.
  • Once I put it together, I was in sewing love. Beautiful. No pattern picture lies here, because we know that happens. They didn’t fudge this one. This pattern is the real deal beautiful.
  • In terms of the instructions, this pattern will be easy to sew for those who are familiar with jacket patterns. There is nothing earth shattering about the instructions and I definitely trolled it for mistakes and errors but it’s solid as a rock.

Why sew with tweeds?

Tweeds are an excellent choice of fabric for sewing because they are durable, warm, and stylish. They are available in a wide range of colors and patterns, so you can easily find one that matches your preferences. Tweeds can be worn on any occasion as they can be dressed up or down.

Tips for sewing with tweeds

Choose the right tweed. Select one with the right weight and drape when choosing a tweed for a project like McCall’s 8155. For example, if you are sewing a jacket, you will want to use a heavier tweed than you would use for a top. The tweed I chose was hand-picked from Melanated Fabrics and features a beautifully delicate, weaved intricate rainbow on a black base. I was in love with this fabric the moment I found it.

Use a sharp needle. Tweeds can be tough to sew through, so it is important to use a sharp needle. A size 11 or 12 needle is a good option.

Stay Sharp

  • Size 11 (75/11) needle:
    • This is a good all-around choice for lightweight fabrics, especially if they are delicate or sheer like silk, voile, synthetics, spandex, or lycra.
    • It’s also a good option for finer threads or creating small, intricate stitches.
    • If you’re new to sewing with thin fabrics, a size 11 is a safe starting point.
  • Size 12 (80/12) needle:
    • This needle is slightly thicker than a size 11 and can handle slightly heavier lightweight fabrics like cotton voile, thin knits, or quilting cottons.
    • It’s also a good choice if you’re using multiple layers of fabric or if your fabric has a loose weave.
    • If you’re unsure whether to use a size 11 or 12, you can usually err on the side of the smaller size to avoid damaging delicate fabrics.
  • Take your time. Sewing with tweeds can be more challenging than sewing with other fabrics, so take your time and don’t rush. As I was sewing McCalls 8155 the fabric naturally was dissolving in my hand. After tweed fabric is cut, it tends to unravel, try not to overhandle the fabric
  • Press as you go. Pressing your seams as you go will help ensure your finished garment looks polished. I can not stress the value of pressing enough BUT with one caveat. Be extremely careful when pressing tweed. Sometimes there is a metallic tread in there that is sure to melt as you are ‘diligently pressing’. When in doubt, use the clapper.

Sewing McCall’s 8155 with tweeds

When sewing McCall’s 8155, #BrightonMcCalls with tweeds, there are a few things you can do to make the process easier. First, be sure to clip your curves, especially those on the collar and the peplum, if you choose this view. This will help to prevent the fabric from bunching up. Second, use a stay stitch along the edges of your seams. This will help to prevent the fabric from raveling. Finally, if you are using a lining, be sure to clip the lining along the curves as well. This will help the lining to lay flat.

Petite Tips for McCalls 8155

I didn’t make any length adjustments. So, I only made sleeve adjustments. Ultimately, I removed approximately 2.5 inches from the length. For reference, I’m 4’11.75″ and about 135lbs as of today. I cut a size 12-ish graded to a size 14-ish at the hip. What’s with all the “-ish”, right? Well, I made a muslin first and made what I call, micro adjustments and tucks to that muslin so maybe I made a size in between these markings but that’s what fitting is all about right? My measurements are bust 32, waist 28.5 inches, hips 39 inches.

I love the way the buttons are placed and that although it is double breasted I don’t feel suffocated in it. Being this short, 4’11”, I have to be extremely careful about double breasted clothing. Double breasted suits can make me look shorter but I think the peplum is the life saver here. Because it cinches the waist in just the right position, your eye is drawn up.

Sewing For My Sanity African American Woman sitting on bench in McCalls 8155 tweed jacket

Let’s talk about the buttons for #BrightonMcCalls

I think the buttons were one of the most difficult design aspects of this make. I did not want the buttons to outshine the fabric. I shopped around at Mood who has an amazing selection of buttons online and locally in town to find just the right set.

Here are some additional tips for sewing with tweeds:

  • If you are using a new needle, test it on a scrap of fabric first to ensure it is sharp enough.
  • If you are having trouble sewing through the tweed, you can try using a longer stitch length.
  • If you are using a lining, be sure to use a fabric that is lighter weight than the tweed.
  • When pressing your seams, use a heat presser cloth to protect the fabric.

I hope this gives you a good overview of McCall’s 8155. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!

With a little bit of care, you can easily sew a beautiful and stylish garment with McCall’s 8155 and tweeds. So grab your pattern, your fabric, and your sewing machine, and get started!

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