What are those Colored dots on the Selvage edge of Fabrics

kiwi fabric with colored coded dots

You’re standing in the fabric store, holding a bolt of the most beautiful, vibrant print. Your mind is racing with all the amazing garments you could create. But then comes the next, often overwhelming, step: choosing the perfect coordinating fabrics, thread, and notions. How do you pick out that one subtle color from the print to match a zipper? How do you find the perfect solid-colored knit for color-blocking?

The answer is likely hidden in plain sight, right on the edge of the fabric you’re holding. Today, we’re doing a deep dive into one of the most overlooked and powerful tools in a sewist’s arsenal: those little colored dots on the selvage edge.

So, What ARE Those Dots, Really?

First, let’s solve the mystery. Those little circles, squares, or even numbered dots on the selvage of a printed fabric are printer’s registration marks. Think of them as a color calibration guide for the fabric manufacturer. Not like the blue fingers I had making that skirt.

When a design is printed onto fabric, it’s usually done in layers, with a separate screen or roller for each color in the print. Those dots are used by the printing technicians to ensure that every screen is perfectly aligned (or “registered”) and that each color is consistent and accurate to the original design. Each dot represents one of the individual colors that make up the entire print.

While their purpose is industrial, for us sewists, they serve an even more brilliant purpose. They are our secret color key. Interestingly enough, I’ve never seen one on Dutch wax or Ankara.

How to Use the Selvage as Your “Secret Color Key”

Once you know that each dot represents a true color in the fabric, you can use the selvage to take all the guesswork out of color matching. This little strip of “scrap” fabric is now your best friend in the fabric store.

1. Achieve Perfect Thread Matching

This is the most common and game-changing use. Instead of unfurling a bolt of fabric and trying to drape it over the thread display, you can simply take your selvage edge (or a photo of it on your phone) and hold it directly against the spools. You’ll be able to find an exact color match for your main color, or even pull out a subtle accent color for some fun topstitching. It’s precise, easy, and eliminates guesswork.

2. Find Flawless Zippers and Notions

This technique works for everything! Trying to find a perfectly matched invisible zipper, a set of buttons, or a package of bias tape? The color dots are your guide. Holding that selvage up to your notions will help you see which shade of, say, blue is the exact shade of blue in your print.

[Insert a photo of a fabric selvage being held up next to a display of zippers or threads]

3. Create Confident Color-Blocking

This is where the fun really starts. Have you ever wanted to add a color-blocked yoke, cuff, or pocket to a garment but felt unsure which color to pull from the print? The dots give you the answer. They often highlight subtle background colors you may not have noticed at first glance. Using one of these accent colors for a color-blocked element will create a professional, cohesive look that is perfectly balanced because it’s already part of the fabric’s official color palette.

4. Build a Cohesive Fabric Pull

This is a next-level tip for planning a capsule wardrobe or a quilt. If you have a “hero print” you want to build a collection around, the selvage is your roadmap. You can use those color dots to confidently pull 3-4 coordinating solid-colored fabrics that you know will match perfectly. It’s the secret to creating those beautiful, harmonious fabric bundles you see on Instagram.

The Pro-Tip: Create a “Selvage Swatch Ring”

Don’t just use this tip in the store—bring it home! My ultimate #SanitySaverTip is this: after every major project, I cut off the 2-3 inch section of the selvage that has the color dots on it. I punch a small hole in the end and add it to a large binder ring.

Over time, this has become a personal “color palette” of my entire fabric stash. If I’m shopping online or in a store without a specific project in mind, I can flip through my swatch ring and instantly know what colors I have at home that I can coordinate with. It’s an invaluable tool for mindful and intentional fabric shopping.

Final Thoughts

The selvage edge is so much more than just a piece of scrap to be trimmed off and thrown away. It’s a hidden tool, a secret language from the manufacturer that we can use to our advantage. By learning to read this “sewist’s color key,” you can take your color-matching skills to the next level and sew with more confidence than ever before.

What’s your favorite “hidden in plain sight” sewing tip? Share it in the comments!